early 'monocoque' carbon construction

The seat cluster from a friend's popular early 'monocoque' cfrp big brand name flagship frame (tdf model) - including a his wet layup repair over a large unbonded joint at the seatstay wishbone. He did a fine job with compaction and estimation of what was necessary, given how many miles went on the bike afterwards! This frame was retired still in working order (with the repair) after a few years of salty training.

...need... more... data

Oh, to be lucky enough to have access to an x-ray machine, for finding the break in a long cable. My sweetheart was unfortunate enough to be in a bad field crash in an NRC crit, ending up with a broken collarbone. There's only so much I can do to help her heal, but while imaging technology was instrumental in her medical treatment, the job of fixing her bike also benefited a small amount from the same technology. The pickup cable for her powertap got snagged, stopped working, but was still intact. It also wasn't clear where the problem was, from the usual radius-of-curvature test (like you would do for a climbing rope). The break in the wire was easy to find with the x-ray, however.

on versatility of bike tools

I make a pretty good income as an engineer, and most sane ways of accounting for the value of my time would encourage me never to purchase used things, and to trash and replace most broken things. I'm totally deaf to those arguments - it's not hard to argue that those economics improperly externalize a great many factors, but I also can't deny that I get simple pleasure from fixing something. It's as if it reaffirms the power of a bit a skill and knowledge, in a world that is overrun by poorly understood control loops.
 

Anyway, I picked up one of these mini food processors (a kitchenaid chef's mini chopper) the other day, in a free pile on the street. It seems to be a certain kind of neighborhood where this kind of thing is in the free (trash) piles, but I digress. Not surprisingly, despite looking like it was in great condition, it wouldn't switch on. Here's what I found (hopefully it will help at least one person).

Opening up the base of the unit requires long (100mm) T20 torx wrenches, or very careful use of 3mm allen keys. However, it's likely that this is unnecessary - the problem with this unit was in the bowl handle. The white lever inside the bowl handle can become bent, I guess either from storage with the lid locked or from accidentally forcing the lid lock while the pin isn't centered over the interlock button/hole. The standard way of dealing with this is probably to just purchase a new bowl, but it is fixable. There is a small clear plastic cap on the bottom, underneath the white lever - approx 1cm x 1cm, which pops out if you depress its locking tabs on the side. then, the white lever comes out if you depress the hinge pins while pulling the lever down and out. This is tricky: I did it by holding two 2.5mm allen keys with locking pliers, and putting a loop of string over the actuation pin. If you loop the other end of the string around something solid (or step on it), then you can grab the bowl just via the two pliers, in the hinge holes (fortunately there is space to slot allen keys in, so that you can pick up the bowl this way and apply tension to the string before pushing hard on the pins. If you pull tension on the string and push the hinge pins in simultaneously, the lever will begin to slide out. Once the hinge pins are clear of their holes, you can work it the rest of the way out by hand. at the top of the lever there is a small plastic insert that engages with the lid, which is affixed with a small phillips-head screw. you may need to bend the flat spring back a bit in order to reach the screw head properly. I removed the insert and replaced it with two washers (m2/2.2/5/0.3 bicycle wheel spoke head washers) between the insert and the lever. The easiest way that I found to do this is to remove the insert, then put the screw back in to the lever only, then put the washers on the other side, then work the insert back on, maintaining contact with the screw so that the washers stay in place. It takes a bit of working to get the screw to line up with the insert, but it will eventually do so, properly. This offsets the lid side of the lever enough to push the interlock pin all the way in, when the lid is locked on. You may need more or fewer thickness in washers, in order to do this, though I suspect that this failure typically occurs at about the same distance every time. After the screw is snug and you've pushed the spring back in place, reinstalling the lever and bottom cap is easy.

MYO 110mm 5 arm Bash Guard (over ~32t ring)

110mm BCD 5 arm bashguard dxf

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MYO 130mm BCD 5arm Bash Guard (over ~39t ring)

130mm BCD 5arm bashguard dxf

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